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OK4450 and Cupping Tire Wear Options
ok4450
Posted: Saturday, July 10, 2010 2:33:09 PM
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I've got experience on two alignment racks, both Hunters, and neither would show a wheelbase difference.

In the case of my daughter's car a homebrew check of the camber and toe do not show a problem, although it's quite possible to have camber and toe within specs even with damage. Adjusting around the problem so to speak. It's possible that the suspension could be pushed back some (altering caster) and this could account for the difference.

At this point in time I can't seem to do any further measuring as she prefers to ignore the problem and even got upset with me when I measured the wheel base originally. This kind of attitude is about the norm though; appearance is all that matters and to hxxx with function.
jtsanders
Posted: Saturday, July 10, 2010 2:36:28 PM
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Barry,

I hope you will forgive me for hijacking this thread for a moment. This deals with your excellent treatise on nitrogen vs. air in tires. You suggest adding 460 to the degrees Fahrenheit to convert to Kelvins. It would actually be degrees Rankine. I thought that The Old Wrench would be a better forum to make this suggestion since it would not detract from the professional nature of your presentation.

JT
CapriRacer
Posted: Sunday, July 11, 2010 8:55:48 AM
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JT,

Thanks. I've always struggled with the 4 temperature systems - and in spite of my researching this to make sure it was correct, I obviously muffed it!

Plus, every time I re-read one of my web pages, I always find mistakes - and this was no exception.

Thanks again.

BTW, if anyone finds a spelling or grammar error, do not hestitate to point it out. Proofreading is not my strong suit!
CapriRacer
Posted: Sunday, July 11, 2010 8:58:48 AM
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ok4450 wrote:
I've got experience on two alignment racks, both Hunters, and neither would show a wheelbase difference.

In the case of my daughter's car a homebrew check of the camber and toe do not show a problem, although it's quite possible to have camber and toe within specs even with damage. Adjusting around the problem so to speak. It's possible that the suspension could be pushed back some (altering caster) and this could account for the difference.

At this point in time I can't seem to do any further measuring as she prefers to ignore the problem and even got upset with me when I measured the wheel base originally. This kind of attitude is about the norm though; appearance is all that matters and to hxxx with function.


I'm a liitle confused about one point.

Wouldn't a difference in wheel base result in a rear toe and thrust angle problem?
ok4450
Posted: Sunday, July 11, 2010 9:23:09 AM
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That's a tough call. Not necessarily on the toe as you're comparing one side to the other (and assuming the axle housing is not bent) but possibly a thrust angle (I call it track) problem could show up but that may depend on the type of align. rack. On the racks I used it likely would not and the track was set by adjusting the front tie rods.
In the case of my daughter's car it's still unknown to me if the problem is due to the rear axle being canted or whether something in the front is tweaked.

On a side note she was out to visit last night and has now made Sunday a day for me to try and go over this car as it spontaneously develoed a loud rattle in the LR quarter area; which just so happens to be where most of the damage occurred. This was all repaired several weeks ago and a preliminary inspection shows nothing loose. NOW my opinion is valued. :-(

In a nutshell, what would I do if someone's car suffered say a pull and the tires were fine with no bias pull, the align. rack showed things were in spec, suspension was fine, etc.?

I would consider the possibility of a dragging brake caliper (either slides or piston seal) or advise them to take the car to a body shop with a frame rack.

This is an interesting subject. The part that irritates me is that for some reason I feel I can't articulate this very well and have done a lousy job of it. Maybe the switch will come on and I can give at least a vaguely coherent answer soon.
jtsanders
Posted: Sunday, July 11, 2010 4:58:24 PM
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"Proofreading is not my strong suit!"

Engineers! I blame it on my poor typing skills. BTW, I'm an engineer, too, if that wasn't clear before.
ok4450
Posted: Thursday, July 15, 2010 9:29:28 PM
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CapriRacer, after much more thought I just don't think I can give a clearcut answer. It just seems to me there are so many variables involved that I can't come up with a one size answer fits all.

Being general for a moment, let's assume this.
Customer has a LF tire wearing on the inside edge. Tires were rotated and now the formerly rear tire is doing the same thing. This would point to too much neg. camber or too much toe-out.
The car is known to never have been wrecked, known to have no suspension or wheel bearing issues, known to never have struck a bad pothole or curb, etc.

Assuming the alignment printout shows that things are where they should be (and for the sake of argument the LF tire is shown to be at '30 positive. The only thing I could see here would be that the align. rack is out of calibration. At this point one could make the recommendation that the car be taken to another facility for an alignment. If the second rack shows something considerably different then it has to be a rack problem.
If the readings are the same or very close then it would seem to me that it's time to have the vehicle put on a frame rack and have a large number of datum points checked.
Maybe it's possible for a subframe to shift on its mounting bolts.

The average align. tech is pretty much limited to what the printout shows and the use of a tape measure.

A dealer I once worked for had an alignment rack that pretty much caused us to go on strike as far as alignments were concerned. The service manager insisted that it had been calibrated and was correct but none of us bought that at all. Every car that went on that rack always showed 1 degree of positive camber on the RF wheel; even on cars that had a large amount of negative camber and which could be eyeballed as such. One could stand 10 feet away and plainly see the top of the wheel canted in by a large amount and the readout was always the same no matter the amount or the type of vehicle; 1 degree positive.
CapriRacer
Posted: Saturday, July 17, 2010 8:32:12 AM
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ok4450 wrote:
...........A dealer I once worked for had an alignment rack that pretty much caused us to go on strike as far as alignments were concerned. The service manager insisted that it had been calibrated and was correct but none of us bought that at all. Every car that went on that rack always showed 1 degree of positive camber on the RF wheel; even on cars that had a large amount of negative camber and which could be eyeballed as such. One could stand 10 feet away and plainly see the top of the wheel canted in by a large amount and the readout was always the same no matter the amount or the type of vehicle; 1 degree positive.


What I would have done is gotten a calibrated level and show the service manager that is wasn't right.

But back to the original subject:

I am of the opinion that if a vehicle comes into an alignment shop, one of 3 things ought to happen:

1) The vehicle leaves in spec.

2) The operator of the vehicle is told the vehicle is not in spec and needs an eccentric bolt / camber plate / etc, and refuses to pay for the installation (I would hope this would be covered BEFORE the vehicle hits the alignment rack!)

3) The operator of the vehicle is informed that the vehicle is not in spec and that he needs to take it to a frame shop to get straightened.

What should not happen is the vehicle leaves the shop out of spec AND:

1) The customer doesn't know it

- OR -

2) The customer doesn't know what he needs to do to fix the problem.

My reason for starting this thread is to address how to respond to posts - whether or not we know enough to make a determination as to which situation we have.
ok4450
Posted: Saturday, July 17, 2010 11:47:48 AM
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I agree with every one of your comments except the eccentric bolt because this may or may not be an option at all. Some vehicles may have something available in the aftermarket to change a borderline or slightly out of spec reading but most don't.

A couple of examples. Many VWs had eccentrics on the 2 bolts that hold the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. With a Ford Taurus the strut tube sits in the steering knuckle and is held in place by a pinch bolt so there is no feasible way to add an eccentric there. Any movement would have to be done by altering the lower ball joint position or the lower control arm pivot point or by altering the ball joint position or pivot points on the upper control arms if the vehicle is so equipped.

My Lincoln has eccentrics on the pivot bolts where the lower control arms attach to the subframe. There are tabs on each side for the eccentric to push against and which in turn change the camber depending on which tab the eccentric is being pushed against.
With a fixed through bolt (as many are) one would have to make and weld tabs in place followed by (hopefully) finding some eccentric bolts that would fit.

Regarding Number 2 of the first 3 the I'm in agreement that a customer should be advised of something like this before the car hits the rack. However, the customers usually deal with service writers and the vast majority will not mention this because they are not mechanically inclined and simply don't know or they're overworked and in a hurry, etc. It may be hard to spend time with details when there are half a dozen (impatient) people waiting in line. They could also mention that worn suspension parts or wheel bearings could have an affect but that likely won't happen either.

As to the service manager I mentioned, we did show him the perpetual positive camber rack several times. It mattered not. Even the VW district rep referred to him as as "that ignorant bald headed (unprintable)".

CapriRacer
Posted: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:03:01 AM
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OK,

I had forgotten about the disconnect between the service writers and the tech's - and I'm pretty sure we've seen posts where "the mechanic" was really the service writer.

And about those eccentric bolts? This was just an example of what MIGHT be possible. I realize that there are some situations where the alignment truly isn't adjustable without bending things - and I'm not advoating that should SOP.

Nevertheless, there is the other side of the coin - some customers only hear what they want to hear. When I read posts, I always try to remember that the post may not have accurate and complete facts.
ok4450
Posted: Sunday, July 18, 2010 10:34:04 PM
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That disconnect is a real Catch 22 and I don't have much of an answer for that. It would be very beneficial if a tech could converse with every customer about every problem and in my opinion this would eliminate a lot of complaints. The problem is that a tech gets paid on commission and every minute spent talking is a minute working for free. This is especially bad at the new car dealer level where techs have to wrestle warranty issues and those seldom pay for the time involved in doing the paperwork or running the vehicle in and out of the shop.
A poster on another board who used to work for Ford referred to performing a Recall on Rangers I believe it was and the job paid .1 hours. A whopping 6 minutes for clocking in, bringing the truck into the shop, standing at the parts counter, doing the job, run the truck out, and then finishing the paperwork. If the tech is making 15 dollars per flat rate hour and he spends 20 minutes on the job (very common) one could see that it's a money losing job.

My preference would be that service writers be older people who may have gotten tired of turning wrenches. These people would generally have the ability to at least condense a "what if" scenario down and know what they're talking about. Most of the ones I've worked with did not meet this criteria though.

This should apply to things other than suspension work. If someone brings a vehicle in for a brake shudder the serv. writer should not automatically tell the customer they need a brake job. They should have enough mechanical smarts to advise the customer that the problem could also be due to worn suspension components, loose wheel bearings, etc.; especially if the vehicle has fairly high mileage on it.
I've done counter work and when a customer had a complaint I would ask follow-up questions, drive the vehicle, etc. and notate it on the repair order for the tech along with giving the customer a heads-up about any problems.

You're also correct about some customers not hearing, or wanting to hear, everything. I've been in the middle of a few of those, including one guy who denied authorizing anything even though the repair order has his signature twice; once when he brought the car in and a second time when we found some serious issues that appeared to be from inside the transmission. The second approval involved another trip down to the shop where he told us to take the trans apart; as noted on the ticket. When I got it apart and found the as-expected bad news THEN he starts screaming that he never wanted us to take anything apart.
Can't win sometimes.
CapriRacer
Posted: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 6:58:27 AM
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I just had a lengthy conversation with a former quality engineer at a vehicle assembly plant. He came to work a couple of years ago for the tire manufacturer I work for - again, as a quality engineer.

I asked him if in his plant he was certain that vehicles leave the plant out of alignment. He said a definite "Yes!". He said they measure every vehicle going out on the same equipment they use to adjust the alignment. During ride evaluations, they will, from time to time, find some that have pull issues. Every time this happens, all the vehicles with pull come from the same alignment booth - and that one always proves to be faulty and giving bad readings - so they adjust it. The problem is that their data would not show bad alignments leaving the plant because the vehicle is leaving the booth "within spec". The only way they can pick it up is to drive the vehicle. Another way to put it is that they do not randomly check the vehicles for alignment on a calibrated jig.

I am sure that not all vehicle manufacturers use the same set up - machines, procedures, suspension designs, etc. - but this leaves me pretty cold that we can depend on new vehicles ALWAYS being properly alignment when they are delivered to buyers. (And I didn't even mention shipping damage!)
ok4450
Posted: Thursday, July 22, 2010 1:35:45 AM
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I think that a high end car will probably have a proper alignment done but most garden variety vehicles like the majority of us drive won't get one at all. I don't know how it's done on the assembly line but my feeling is that the subframes come down the line with the steering rack and suspension components all attached and the entire mass is bolted onto the floor pan.
Close enough for the masses and if someone notices a skewed steering wheel or something like that it's probably corrected. Most will be close enough for sale to the public.

It's kind of regrettable to do it this way but the number crunchers are not likely going to sit still for having every single vehicle off the line go onto an alignment rack and verify that it's dead on.
SAAB was the only new car that I worked on that received a front end alignment check as part of the Pre-Delivery Inspection. The PDI was very thorough (5 hours worth) but the cost was also passed on to the buyer of the car.

I've also wondered about how many vehicles were unloaded from transport trucks in a not so gentle manner.
We had several SAABs come right off the truck with external engine oil coolers ripped off during the unloading, bent bumpers, etc.
A transport driver at the Chevy dealer next door ran a new Monte Carlo right off the side of the ramps one day and left the car a total wreck.
Although I did not see the car fall I did get to see it about 15 minutes after it hit the pavement. The transport driver was shaken a bit but nothing serious.
Marnet
Posted: Thursday, July 22, 2010 1:32:10 PM

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After following this discussion, it reinforces the lesson I learned with my Impala when I had to replace tires at only 14k miles due to a severely out of alignment rear end from the factory. Next time I buy a car it gets a four point alignment as part of the purchase agreement or immediately afterwards. I'll also keep alignments as part of regular maintenance on a 12 to 24 month schedule from now on rather than wait until I think I detect a problem. In fact, just had that done this week along with an oil change.

I bet what my old car needed (among other things) was to have the rear end aligned as I don't recall ever having that done. Dad only ever had front end alignments when he thought there was a problem and that's what I had learned. With respect to my father, I've learned some things about good maintenance of a car from y'all that he apparently didn't know.

Marnet
...still reading, still learning!
ok4450
Posted: Saturday, July 24, 2010 12:03:16 AM
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Actually, negotiating a 4 wheel alignment as part of the car price is not a bad idea at all. Every new car should go through a PDI and there's a checklist for this. While most do not include an alignment, it does involve checking over every facet of the car, suspension bolts, test drive, etc, etc.
Only one dealer of the ones I've worked for actually had us mechanics do the PDIs; which we found technically boring but easy to run through and an asset to a paycheck. Most dealers likely send them back to the detail guys and how much they actually do is probably questionable at best.

I wouldn't worry too much about 12 month alignments or possibly even 24 months unless a problem is suspected. An alignment check every 30, 40, or 50k miles is a good idea depending on how many rough roads the car sees.

Question for CapriRacer since you're in the tire business. Back when I got out of school everyone pretty much used plain old bias ply tires. They're all radials now.
It seems to me that tires, and especially with the use of alloy wheels, are harder to keep in balance than they used to be. Way back when, a tire balance problem seldom ever happened with bias tires/steel wheels and it seems they're more prone to getting a bit out of kilter now no matter what.
I absolutely loathe a car that pulls or even shakes the tiniest bit and it's irritating to balance tires down to utter perfection and then a month later start to feel it coming on. When put back on the balancer it's often off a 1/4 ounce; sometimes a bit less, sometimes more.

What is your opinion on this? Do you think this could be due to a tire having a tendency to move a tiny bit on the bead on an alloy wheel as compared to a steel wheel or do the wider tires now play a part in this? Just wondering.
CapriRacer
Posted: Saturday, July 24, 2010 11:08:05 AM
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ok4450 wrote:
..........Only one dealer of the ones I've worked for actually had us mechanics do the PDIs; which we found technically boring but easy to run through and an asset to a paycheck. Most dealers likely send them back to the detail guys and how much they actually do is probably questionable at best.........


I've been to some dealerships - as part of something else - where they do next to nothing. Some don't even install the parts that come in the bag!!

ok4450 wrote:
......I wouldn't worry too much about 12 month alignments or possibly even 24 months unless a problem is suspected. An alignment check every 30, 40, or 50k miles is a good idea depending on how many rough roads the car sees.........


I think the problem here is what to tell folks when they ask the question: "Is it necessary?". If folks are willing to sacrifice a tire or 2, then they only need to do when they detect a problem.

But a lot of folks don't pay attention to anything, and while they would probably not ask the question to begin with, if they hear "Not Needed!", they interpret that to mean "Don't ask, don't look, don't tell, nothing bad will happen!", but will complain loudly when they have to pay to replace DANGEROUS tires.

- but I digress! -

ok4450 wrote:
.........Question for CapriRacer since you're in the tire business. Back when I got out of school everyone pretty much used plain old bias ply tires. They're all radials now.
It seems to me that tires, and especially with the use of alloy wheels, are harder to keep in balance than they used to be. Way back when, a tire balance problem seldom ever happened with bias tires/steel wheels and it seems they're more prone to getting a bit out of kilter now no matter what.

I absolutely loathe a car that pulls or even shakes the tiniest bit and it's irritating to balance tires down to utter perfection and then a month later start to feel it coming on. When put back on the balancer it's often off a 1/4 ounce; sometimes a bit less, sometimes more.

What is your opinion on this? Do you think this could be due to a tire having a tendency to move a tiny bit on the bead on an alloy wheel as compared to a steel wheel or do the wider tires now play a part in this? Just wondering.


1) If you remember bias ply tires, you also remember that cars were "body on frame". They had a huge rubber isolator between the frame and the body. The wad of rubber does wonders to reduce the amount of vibration that gets transmitted to the driver. Pickup trucks are still built this way - and if you look under the body, you'll still find them - and they work just as well. Pickup trucks are pretty insensitive to wheel end vibrations.

2) In addition to more unibody cars, the use of computers has allowed car designs to be stiffer - moving the resonant frequencies of the body closer to the resonant frequencies of the suspension. This makes the car more sensitive.

3) The actual manufacturing processes have improved and the cars are just tighter - again, making the car more sensitive.

4) Old recirculating ball steering mechanisms were more isolated that the rack and pinion system used today.


When you add all these things up, the general movement has been towards making cars more sensitive. Interestingly, you'd think that the use of alloy wheels would greatly reduce the amount of weight of the tire / wheel assembly - but it is not as much as you would think.

One of the interesting aspects to all this - at least from an engineering philosphy point of view - is that it is much easier to make a car twice as sensitive than it is to make the tire's variation half what it used to be.

PLUS - radial tires are much more sensitive to toe in, making them more prone to generating offending vibrations - and frankly, the tolerances for toe-in having changed since the bias tire days - and they should have!

Besides, if you got a set of bias tires to last 30K, you were doing good. Nowadays, it is expected that radial tires will last 30K - and that's about where these vibrations start to show up.

So when someone say cars were better built in the good old days - I say " Your memory isn't as good as in the good old days!"
ok4450
Posted: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:27:12 PM
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Thank you for your insight. One thing I cannot stand is a car that pulls or has the slightest amount of vibration in it and wrestling with balance problems steams me to no end.

One of my cars got some new Bridgestones a while back and within a month I could detect a subtle vibration around 55-60 MPH. Pulling the fronts off I find that one of them is about a 1/4 ounce off and the other about an 1/8.
After balancing the car was fine for several weeks and now it's back to the same thing again. I just haven't taken the time to repeat the balancing procedure but I know that both are going to be off once again.
The problem is not glaringly bad; just aggravating because I expect near perfection and I don't like any shake at all no matter how slight.

It seems this kind of thing is more prevalent with alloy wheels than plain old steel wheels; or at least that's my perception of it anyway. It seems that whenever a tire goes on the balancer it's generally one that's mounted on an alloy and while the out of balance amount is generally not way out of line one can just about count on 1/4 ounce out. It's very frustrating.
CapriRacer
Posted: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 10:05:49 AM
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And as a followup:

Does anyone have access to alignment specs? Are they available on-line somewhere?
ok4450
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 1:15:46 AM
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The manuals I have give specs although on the later manuals I'm always uneasy as to whether to really trust them or not. Chiltons publishes a lot of erroneous information and that is why I'm antsy about what's in there.
Chiltons claims that 6 PSI of oil pressure at elevated RPMs is normal for one of my oldest son's cars and that 115 PSI is acceptable and normal for engine compression. That is beyond ludicrous.

As to online specifications I've personally found that kind of info hard to dredge up. One may find the errant spec here and there for a particular make or model but I've never found a site that listed vehicle specs en masse.
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